Northern Colombia - Guajira peninsula and Santa Marta mountains
- Alejandro Pinto
- Mar 31
- 5 min read
Extension – Guajira Peninsula, Tayrona, and Santa Marta Mountains
After an incredibly successful two-week journey through the western and central cordilleras, my friends: Kim, Deb, Chuck, Barb, Bob, and Emily joined me for a short extension in northern Colombia. For all of them, this was their first visit to this region, which offered entirely new landscapes, cultures, and, of course, birds.
The northernmost reaches of Colombia are not just a geographical point; they represent the driest region of the country and serve as a fascinating landscape rich in biodiversity. This unique area features a tropical dry forest that supports a remarkable array of flora and fauna, some of which are endemic to the region.
By combining the striking Guajira Peninsula with the breathtaking Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta—the highest coastal mountain range in the world—you create an extraordinary opportunity for exploration. This mountainous backdrop provides a stunning contrast to the arid landscapes of the Guajira, making it a perfect destination for new birds and wildlife.
the group in the Santa Marta Mountains
Day 1: Exploring Camarones
Our adventure began in the village of Camarones and its surroundings. The landscape is dominated by dry, thorny shrubs, and temperatures can rise quickly by mid-morning. To make the most of the cooler, cloudy morning, we hit the trails early, and our efforts paid off with excellent views of nearly all our regional targets: Chestnut Piculet, White-whispered Spinetail, Vermilion Cardinal, Buffy Hummingbird, Orinocan Saltator, Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant, Pale-tipped Inezia, Slender-billed Inezia, Green-rumped Parrotlet, and Russet-throated Puffbird, among others. Shorebirds also featured on our list, as the shallow, saline lagoons near the village provide ample opportunities for observation. We capped the morning with a sighting of a couple of Double-striped Thick-knee.
Vermilion Cardinal, photo by Bob Dunlap
Day 2: Wildlife in Tayrona National Park
Our second morning took us to Tayrona National Park, where the landscape changed dramatically—replacing the dry scrub of the Guajira Peninsula with lush, tropical humid forests filled with tall green trees. The day was filled with both bird and mammal sightings. We visited two or three locations within the park, where we were joined by howling Red-Howler Monkeys and a playful family of five Cotton-top Tamarins in the forest canopy.
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth
We observed Southern Bentbill, White-chinned Sapphire, Pale-bellied Hermit, and Black-crowned Antshrike, among other species.
Eager to find the elusive Blue-billed Curassow, we quickly made our way to an area near the ocean where a local resident had spotted one. We were fortunate to observe at least one male, and despite its shy demeanor, we managed some good views. After breakfast, our list continued to grow: we added White-bearded Manakin, Lance-tailed Manakin, and then, unexpectedly, another Curassow on a forest trail! On our way back to the hotel, we spotted a Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth enjoying a midday siesta. Upon returning, our local guide informed us that a couple of Curassows were feeding in the hotel parking area; it was indeed a "three Curassow morning!"
Blue-billed Curassow, photo by Alejandro Pinto
Journey to the Santa Marta Mountains
The Santa Marta mountains are renowned for their incredible biodiversity, particularly their endemism. Rising 18,000 feet, this highest coastal mountain range in the world looms majestically over the Caribbean, boasting more than 20 endemic bird species that inhabit the varying elevations— from the lush lower slopes to the higher altitudes above the treeline. Over the next three days, we focused on exploring the mid, high, and low elevations of these mountains, ranging from 1,000 to 2,800 meters (3,000 to 9,000 feet), in order to maximize our birdwatching experience.
the views from Mountain House
Our first day in the mid-elevations was exceptionally productive, resulting in over 70 species, including several endemics. We spotted a couple of female Santa Marta Woodstars feeding on an Inga sp. tree (commonly known as the ice-cream bean), along with the elusive Santa Marta Foliage Gleaner, Black-headed Tanager, and Santa Marta Brush Finch, among others. During a mid-morning walk in a nearby rural area, we continued to add species, eventually enjoying coffee at a local farmhouse where we spotted the stunning Santa Marta Blossomcrown and Rusty-breasted Antpitta. Our morning concluded with a breathtaking sighting of a female White-tipped Quetzal and a Golden-breasted Fruiteater!
White-tipped Quetzal female, photo by Bob Dunlap
Our lodge, Mountain House, nestled amidst lush greenery, was superb. With its productive garden, spectacular ocean views, and breathtaking sunsets, it was a birdwatching paradise teeming with species such as Lazuline Sabrewing, Sierra Nevada Brush Finch, Santa Marta Brush Finch, Santa Marta Blossomcrown, Yellow-backed Oriole, and Scarlet-fronted Parakeets flying at eye level.
Santa Marta Brush Finch, photo by Bob Dunlap
Ascending to San Lorenzo
Our second full day began early as we drove to San Lorenzo Ridge at 9,000 feet. During the drive, still in darkness, we heard the haunting call of a Santa Marta Screech Owl. After a few tense moments, we spotted it flying right in front of us, eventually landing at eye level for spectacular views!
Santa Marta Screech Owl, photo by Bob Dunlap
Once we reached the top, the morning was filled with excitement as we encountered species such as Santa Marta Parakeet, Santa Marta Antpitta, Sierra Nevada Antpitta, Santa Marta Warbler, Streak-capped Spinetail, Rusty-headed Spinetail, and Santa Marta Mountain Tanager—all endemics! We finished this leg of birding with a Golden Grosbeak, and as we moved to our second stop, we continued to add remarkable species, including the endemic Black-backed Thornbill.
Watching birds atop of Santa Marta Mountains
On our final morning, we focused on the lower elevation slopes below 4,000 feet. Once again, we enjoyed an incredible morning filled with activity and avian wonders. Our first stop yielded immediate sightings of our targeted species: Whooping Motmot and Golden-winged Sparrow, and then we were thrilled to see a flock of Swallow-tailed Kites soaring overhead with a magnificent King Vulture! As we walked along a gravel road bordered by lush forest, we also spotted Collared Aracari, Scaled Piculet, Golden-headed Manakin, Little Tinamou, and many others.
Whooping Motmot, photo by Bob Dunlap
The unexpected record.
For decades, the Santa Marta Sabrewing has been shrouded in mystery, an elusive phantom of the Santa Marta mountains. Once thought lost to science, this remarkable bird has left only whispers in the form of occasional sightings, each shrouded in uncertainty and lacking substantial evidence. However, in a thrilling turn of events in 2023, a local guide captured both a photograph and a sighting of this legendary hummingbird in the slopes of the Santa Marta mountains. in a remote area which requires an expedition.
we were extremeley lucky, on the second day at Mountain House, a local woman approached us with an astonishing photo of the Sabrewing, showcasing its distinctive black tail—the hallmark that sets it apart. Heart racing, we realized it had been visiting the feeders! For a fleeting couple of hours, we were graced with its presence before it vanished again. This experience wasn’t just a sighting; it was a wonderful moment.
Santa Marta Sabrewing, photo by Alejandro Pinto
In total, we wrapped up our five-day Caribbean extension with a fantastic 219 bird species observed!
here our top birds:
1. Santa Marta Screech Owl
2. Santa Marta Sabrewing
3. King Vulture
4. Vermilion Cardinal
5. Whooping Motmot
Special mention: Blue-billed Curassow